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Korean Cuisine Redefined

Ravioli, pickled beef tongue, and sashimi were just three of the dishes that were served earlier this month for Korean Cuisine Redefined — none of which you will probably find on the menu at your local Korean restaurant.  Held at the Korean Consulate in New York on October 5th, the tasting featured five Korean American chefs and their own take on redefining Korean cuisine. To get to know a little more about the food and the inspiration behind it, let’s meet the chefs!

Rachel Yang, Akira Back, Youngsun Lee, Andrew Chang, Tommy Lee
Rachel Yang, Akira Back, Youngsun Lee, Andrew Chang, and Tommy Lee

Vivian Lee and Rachel Yang
Don’t let her sweet demeanor deceive you, Rachel Yang makes some serious food.  She and her husband Seif own Joule Restaurant in Wallingford, Washington, where seasonal ingredients, French techniques, and Korean flavors take center stage, coming together harmoniously to create magical tastes that transcend cultural boundaries.

smoked tofu with honshimeiji confit and wild sesame seeds
The first bite of Rachel’s smoked tofu with Honshimeiji confit and wild sesame seeds delivered a powerful smoky flavor, bearing close resemblance —in both taste and texture—to smoked mozzarella.  The smoky tofu slab was topped with a bed of Honshimeiji mushroom confit, then sprinkled with a chiffonade of basil, wild sesame seeds, and a drizzle of tart soy truffle vinegarette.

pickled beef tongue, braised kohlrabi and quail egg
A trio of pickled beef tongue, braised kohlrabi and quail egg was shuffled into small wooden boats and quickly swept away by the hungry masses.  Pickling was a especially interesting way to prepare beef tongue, an ingredient commonly found stuffed into tacos or sliced like deli meat and stacked inside sandwiches.

rum raisin and chestnut honey sweet rice fruit cake

Rum raisin and chestnut honey sweet rice fruit cake was a deliciously sticky orgy of glutinous rice, rum raisins, diced jujubes, and nuts topped with a dash of course sea salt and microgreens for embellishment, then generously drizzled with chestnut honey.

Vivian Lee and Akira Back
Previously a professional snowboarder shredding the slopes in Colorado, Akira Back now tears it up in Las Vegas, where he helms the kitchen and wields the sushi knives at Yellowtail Restaurant and Lounge in the Bellagio Hotel and Resort.  You can usually find him slicing up fat blue fin tunas freshly shipped from Japan in his army pants and bright blue Etnies kicks and mixing things up, often times throwing in ingredients on his menu that are probably more familiar at a Korean restaurant.

korean fluke "kwang eo" with caviar and gochujang sauce, with micro bull's blood and micro cilantro
Kwang Eo with caviar and Gochujang sauce were meticulously laid out onto each plate beneath a delicate bed of micro cilantro and micro bulls blood beet greens.  Although this dish seemed fairly simple to make,  sake, mirin, and 7up were all stirred in with gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, to create a spicy effervescent concoction.

Vivian Lee and Youngsun Lee
Youngsun Lee stays true to Korean flavors and culinary techniques in his cooking.  When asked by MC Vivian Lee why he chose cooking as his profession, he explained his mission to educate more people about Korean cuisine and culture.  Previously the chef and owner of Persimmon in the East Village, he is now teaches at the Institute of Culinary Education, his alma mater.

braised pork belly "bo ssam", moo woo kimchi, salted napa cabbage and baby shrimp

A sliver of braised pork belly “bo ssam”, moo woo kimchi, salted napa cabbage and baby shrimp.  The salty pork belly and spicy and tart kimchi are a winning combination.

eggplant with tofu dressing "ga ji neng jo rim" silken tofu, black sesame and fried rice cake

A mild and creamy concoction of eggplant with tofu dressing, or “ga ji neng jo rim” in Korean, consists of slow-cooked eggplant, silken tofu and black sesame counterbalanced with crunchy black and white bits of fried rice cake.

grilled octopus salad "moon eo goo yi" salad, water chestnut, shallot, pickled asian plums

Braised until tender, the grilled octopus salad, or “moon eo goo yi”, is paired with water chestnut, shallot, and pickled Asian plums.

Vivian Lee and Andrew Chang
Andrew Chang was born and raised in New York and is the newly appointed sous chef at the Central Park Boathouse.  He is Korean by heritage but 100% New York at heart — with a downright fierce devotion to the Yankees and a sleeve full of witty remarks.  Founder and president of the Global Culinary Society at his alma mater, the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, it is apparent that New York’s global culinary landscape is a major source of his inspiration.

pumpkin porridge with dried jujube, pumpkin seed oil, roasted chestnuts

Andrew’s pumpkin porridge with dried jujube, pumpkin seed oil, and roasted chestnuts had the texture and viscosity of a hearty butternut squash soup.  The bits of dried jujube and roasted chestnuts bring a nice sweetness to the soup when mixed together.

bulgogi summer rolls with spicy pineapple ginger sauce

Having gone to Vietnam with Andrew and other student chefs for a culinary tour over four years ago, I still have vivid memories of all the delicious food we had while we were there.  Seeing a summer roll reinterpreted with Korean ingredients and flavors brought back nostalgic Vietnam moments and was a very welcome surprise.  Andrew’s version of summer rolls were filled with bulgogi in a shallow pool of spicy pineapple ginger dipping sauce.

Vivian Lee and Tommy Lee
Last but not least was Tommy Lee of Battery Gardens in New York.  Accustomed to catering to dignitaries and top political figures, he veered away from his usual repertoire and turned to his Korean roots for some inspiration.

pork and kimchi raviolis
Miniature pork and kimchi raviolis were a perfect mouth-popping size.


photo by Kathy YL Chan
More mini raviolis; these sweet versions are filled with red bean paste over a dollop of whipped cream, topped with crystallized ginger and a sprig of cilantro.


photo by Kathy YL Chan
Lollypop-sized Korean style barbecue lamb chops.

bucket of pickled beef tongue

At the end of the night, while everyone was cleaning and packing up their belongings, Rachel approached me and asked, “Veronica, what should I do with this bucket of beef tongue?  This can keep for a while, since it’s pickled, and I would hate to throw it away.”  And just like that, I went home with a bucket of tongue.

3 Responses to Korean Cuisine Redefined

  1. Talisa says:

    I’m drooling.

  2. Jessica says:

    I’m jealous! Wish I could be as innovative as these chefs!

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