World to Table

To escape the sweltering subway stations and crowded streets of August in New York City, my family took a road trip to Cape Cod two weekends ago.  My sister and I have been wanting to go whale watching since our days at Sea World camp–many years ago, back when we were four feet tall and in elementary school.  We spent that summer feeding manatees and dissecting squid.  It was only the beginning of our love for the creatures of the sea.

After five long hours of driving, we arrived in Provincetown with aching legs and growling stomachs and made our way to the nearest wharf-side food shack, John’s Footlong, to refuel before we boarded the boat for our whale watching tour.

Lobster roll busting at the seams

Just look at the toasty sides of the J. J. Nissen roll

It was at John’s Footlong that I had my very first lobster roll ever.  Judging by the hunkering mound of lobster in this roll, it was probably the sad fate of 2 or 3 lobsters.  The roll is a fine specimen itself–a signature J.J. Nissen roll, top-split New England bun, which was buttered and toasted to produce a nice golden crust that soaks in just enough mayonnaise, but doesn’t easily get soggy.

On the whale watching tour, we encountered a few friendly Humpbacks–a mom and its calf, as well as a pair of  young whales who were taking a midday nap, or “logging”, as our guide called it.  A curious whale came up right next to our boat and sneezed some plankton-scented air at us.

A friendly Humpback waving hello

Kazumtite!

Whale face speckled with barnacle scars

Red Inn

Back in Provincetown after the tour, we headed to the Red Inn for dinner.  Little did we know, this place was booked solid until 10:30 pm.  We struck a deal with the hostess, who agreed to let us eat dinner in one hour, before the guests who reserved the table would arrive.

My mom ordered the fresh local sea scallops with orzo and a citrus Cuerre Blanc; atop a bed of orzo lay four sumptuously fat and juicy scallops.  I thought the scallops were slightly under seasoned, aside from the golden brown sear on the top and bottom.

I ordered the grilled Long Island duck breast, which was blackened and grilled and a savory bread pudding drizzled with a passion fruit maple glaze.  The passion fruit glaze cut the fattiness of the duck, while the dense and cheesy bread pudding soaked up the remaining sticky glaze.

My dad ordered the daily special, a flaky and moist pan-fried cod with crispy haricot vert.  My sister ordered a gazpacho that isn’t really worth mentioning–tasted more like a watery salsa.  After our hour was up, we were thoroughly full and satisfied as we drove back to our hotel in Hyannis to rest up after a long day in Provincetown.

John’s Footlong
309 Commercial Street
Provincetown, MA 02657
(508) 487-7434

Red Inn
15 Commercial Street
Provincetown, MA 02657
(508) 487-red Inn (508.487.7334)
http://www.theredinn.com